Anycubic Photon P1

r/resinprinting·OP·Jun 2026

Negative

Photon P1 prints tearing

I keep getting tearing when printing large models. What steps can I take to prevent this from happening as the prints are quite big and wasting all that resin and time is annoying? I keep getting tearing when printing large models. The supports are premade and work on other Anycubic printers with the same resin. The resin I am using is Anycubic 14K Texture Resin. The settings used for the resin are the preloaded settings for the resin in Photon Workshop. The only thing that I have changed is the Normal Layer exposure time (decreased it by 0.2 sec) as in tests that gave the best results. I have checked the supports and suction cupping and all seem to be fine. What steps can I take to prevent this from happening as the prints are quite big and wasting all that resin and time is annoying?

YouTube·Critic Review

Positive

ANYCUBIC Photon P1 Resin 3D Printer Stability Review Is it Worth it

The Anycubic Photon P1 is presented as an advanced resin 3D printer offering ultra-high 14K resolution, a large build volume, and industrial-grade stability for consistent, repeatable results.

r/resinprinting·thedisliked23·Jul 2026

Neutral

Just a padawan looking for some masters guidance

Dimensional accuracy is gonna be your biggest hurdle. Resin printers don't do well with flat things like Lego bricks and sharp corners. Super highly detailed miniatures do not have these issues. I have a Saturn 16k and a photon p1. I much prefer the p1. But I had a terrible time getting bottom surfaces correct with the p1 until I switched resins and dialed I it in. Sloooooow was the key there. The Saturn does slightly better but has poor AA so the p1 produced better prints overall. The reality is in my experience the technology changes constantly but the output doesn't change nearly as much. By that I mean I can print the same thing on an 8 year old mars 2 and my fancy ultra 16k and it's very difficult to tell the difference. Again, when the resin is dialed in. What you're really getting with new stuff is quality of life improvements imo. If you're really looking for dimensional accuracy I'd lean towards a closed ecosystem like hey gears but things start getting expensive at that point. My take? If you can get the p1 at the same or similar price as the 16k I'd say it's absolutely worth it. The gimmick of the tilt bed wears off pretty quick and it doesn't do anything better than the p1. The p1 was amazing with anycubic resin but bottom accuracy was terrible so a switch to a different resin solved that for me. The same resin would barely print on the ultra. Why? Who knows. All that is to say that I think whatever printer you get, if you want to pop it out of the box and print rad statues and minis it will be easy peasy and you'll be happy with any of the big name flagship consumer models. If you want to print perfect Lego bricks you're just gonna need to be ready to try different resins and do lots of exposure tests and mess with lifts speeds/distances/light off times, etc. it's just the nature of the medium.

YouTube·Best Buys Reviewed and Alibaba Product Reviews

Positive

ANYCUBIC Photon P1 Review: The Dual-Material Resin Printer That Ends Assembly Forever

The Anycubic Photon P1 is highlighted as a revolutionary dual-material resin printer that eliminates manual assembly by printing multiple materials or colors in one go, ensuring perfect bonding and structural integrity. Its industrial ball screw provides exceptional precision for functional prototypes and detailed models.

r/resinprinting·Bullxzarwen·May 2026

Negative

Photon P1 takes 3-4 hours making the first 10% of total layers, then complete the other 90 in no the real time I set the parameters.

Sorry to bother, but I´m kinda lost at this moment. I bought an Anycubic Photon P1 couple of months ago and quality wise the prints are gorgeous. But, like the title states, I cannot comprehend what I´m doing wrong: If a sliced file takes, for example, 6 hours, it really takes for the printer around 9-10. This is because the first 10% of layers are slow as hell, one per minute or so. The rest of it, at a normal speed I set on the slicer (as the image I post). I tried different slicers and the results are the same. Right now I´m printing some kaiju pokemon that should take around 5 hours (Lychee´s slicer stimation) and 1 hours after, 2% done. Any piece of advice? Thanks in advance. https://preview.redd.it/z7k428950jyg1.png?width=1594&format=png&auto=webp&s=a905b8d8612e6fab2131a8557912ace069d2afb2