Why is everyone raving about the M7 max but not the pro???
I have the m7 pro and it’s great. Although I’d love to have the new lid on it(it’s a small annoyance removing it and putting it down when removing models) and a larger build, but I gets the job done and does it well. The heated vat was a game changer for me. It gets quite cold where I’m at but I have a thick grow tent to keep the temp stable and the heated vat does the rest. As for the auto feeder it works great and don’t really have any debris get stuck in it since I let the resin settle for a bit then run the clean fep feature and use my old supports to bind to it during that time to make for easy removal. Also, if you don’t want to keep adding through a funnel or straight into the vat to fill your refill bottle, Elegoo resin bottles work on it. I got some Elegoo Rapid resin and it was a direct fit onto the bottle. If you don’t need the large build volume, the m7 pro is great, especially if you’ll be working with extremely detailed models. Id say if you can find any videos comparing models side by side from the m7 max and pro, that would be your best bet. I know the pro says it’s 14k but it’s not a true 14k display, just like any other printers that use that terminology.
Elegoo Saturn 4 or Anycubic M7? (Ultra, 14K, 16K, Pro and all)
The M7 Pro is presented as a strong competitor to the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra, offering a 14K screen and good overall printing performance, though its heating and auto-resin filling systems are criticized.
Anycubic Mono M7 14k a reliable and good start?
I have helped several people with adhesion issues with the M7, and know someone who literally designed tests to prove it is flawed. All auto-leveling printers currently in production are flawed anyways, but the M7 has some other issue in it’s design that leads to too much flex/movement and it doesn’t form early layers thin enough to fully cure, and this becomes an issue when you use a resin that has low cure depth that you can’t use the typical method of over exposing bottom layers counting on bleed through to finish curing the previous layer. This on top of Anycubic delivering a shockingly high number of concave plates that just makes the issue worse.
Personally the only printer I recommend these days is the Saturn 3 non-Ultra. Do enough digging and you can deal with most of the problems with the Saturn 4 Ultra, but it doesn’t have quite as many easy ways to deal with common issues as conventional (non tilting vat, manually leveled) printers have. Still I’d take the S4U over the M7. Do not buy a Saturn 4 non-Ultra. That printer makes 0 sense as long as the Saturn 3 non-Ultra still exists as the S4 loses anti-aliasing. The S3 is the last non-Ultra printer to still support anti-aliasing.
Avoid Phrozen, over priced for being no better than Elegoo or Anycubic. I was glad I finally could get rid of mine.
Anycubic Photon Mono M7: 150mmh Speed and Performance Review
The Anycubic Photon Mono M7 is praised for its impressive 150 mm/h print speed and large 10.1-inch screen, making it ideal for high-volume or large-scale resin printing. Its main drawback is the noise generated by its cooling system and resin pump.
Good first resin printer? Anycubic Photon Mono M7 deal ($559 AUD / ~$360 USD)
I have this printer, I upgraded after using my mono 2. I am happy with the it, unhapy with anycubic resin lol. I have it since march and till now I did not have a problem with it.
The only issue it got, and I started wondering why in these couple of weeks, is that it does not let you set a different Off time for the LCD for the bottom layers and the standard layers.
The problem with anycubic resin is: usually the suggested settings are horse shit. Sometimes to make things stick to the build plate you need to adjust the Off time of the LCD for the first 4/5 bottom layers. You can do this of course by slicing and setting that time to 30 seconds, but then when importng the file in UVTools you cannot set that that time will go the standard 1.5/2 second off time automatically. You have to manually adjust the off time via app or directly on the printer. Other printers such as elegoo let you just set 30 seconds for the first 4 layers, and then gradually the printer will down that time to the desired amount. It is a nice to have since you start the print and you do not have to worry about anything. On the M7 for the first 20 minutes you have to be there, or at least monitor the app and adjust things, which is a bit of a pain.
Another problem would be the film. It uses the faster but less precise ACF rather than the FEP or nFEP. Is it really a problem? Not for me. I print stuff or DnD and warhammer, and I am very happy with the details. I do not need more of it, I like the speed rate at which I manage to print stuff and with the right resin the models have all the details and precision I need. That is very personal but if you wonder online you'll find many people complaining that the quality is bad and so on, and that you need to replace it to have acceptable results. I tell you this: before spending more money on a film, which yes it's not a ton, try it like it this and see for yourself if it is worth it. Remember that changing a film is not about money, but about the process. The films are different materials, that stretch in very different ways. So when changing from one to another, especially if you do not know what you are doing, you could make a mess. So again, print, get a hang on it, and if you feel like you need more detail, go for the new film.
Bak on the resin topic, certain resins just worked good. I think about the ABS water washable V2. That resin worked with the standard settings just fine and it was a pleasure to print. So again, it is about finding the sweet spot. The DLP resin is excellent for details, really really amazing, but it is one of those that needs some tuning to be able to print successfully.
The build plate is easy to clean after a print, you just wait till the majority of the resin drops back on the tank, so ideally you let the print hang overnight, and you are good to go. I heard that the tilting elegoo vat is not that easy to clean, which for me is a no no. I want something easy to use, to clean and maintain. Hence why I am not happy that anycubic does not support that Off time thing I told you before, because it forces you to do stuff instead of starting a print and not caring anymore until it finishes. But, again, it is about changing a value via app. While cleaning a build plate is about touching not safe material that smells awful. So in that sense a simple build plate helps.
The build plate is also big enough that you can print vehicles and big stuff with relatively a small amount of prints. I could print a norn emissary in one go, same for a dreadnought and so on.
Overall I am happy. Bare in mind that I got it for 99 euros brand new, and at that price it is hard to beat lol. But it's a nice printer, given that you find a resin that works for you, and it is very simple to use. Every printer can have problems, such as LCD problems, software bugs or other things. Anything could break at some point. For that price you get a lot of stuff, basically all the stuff you really need, and that probably is the most important factor. Since every brand can have problems and issues, I would go for the one that costs less and has all the things and capabilities you need.
I wanna enforce the fact that every printer can have malfunctions, so go for the best deal for you buck. Remember that you get a resin printer because you have a hobby, not becasue resin printing is you hobby. I like using mine surely, but I do it becasue I like painting my stuff and play with it. If not for that, I would not print.
